At the Burberry show in London, Daniel Lee explores new codes



Published on

Sep 18, 2023

English designer Daniel Lee presented his second collection for Burberry on Monday in London, with new summer variations of the famous trench coat and a whole series of new accessories, which seemed to appeal to the celebrities who came in large numbers.

Burberry – Spring-Summer2024 – Womenswear – United Kingdom – London – © Launchmetrics

Burberry, a “So British” brand founded in 1856, was the most anticipated fashion week in the British capital. Moreover, the Bond Street metro station in the city center was renamed, on signs, “Burberry Street” for the duration of this event.

As for his first fashion show in February, artistic director Daniel Lee, 37, welcomed his hundreds of guests under a huge tent pitched in a London park: a nod to the British taste for outdoor activities – whatever the weather! -, which is inseparable from Burberry’s identity.

Many celebrities made the trip: the Australian singer Kylie Minogue, the British actresses Jodie Comer, Rachel Weisz, the British athlete, four-time Olympic champion, Mo Farah, the Arsenal midfielder Bukayo Saka without forgetting the rappers Kano and Skepta.

Once these stars were installed, the parade could begin. Daniel Lee compares this women’s and men’s collection to “an exploration of lightness, sensuality, beauty and elegance”.

“The brand’s codes are evolving,” explains the designer. In fact, the famous tartan is becoming rarer while other prints are appearing on clothing. Jewelry and chains are drawn on shorts, dresses, shirts, trench coats.

– Unbeatable star –

In summer 2024, the trench coat, Burberry’s undeniable star, is worn very wide and belted low, on the hips. Daniel Lee dares to wear a flashy, orange trench coat with printed jewelry, far from the classic beige model. Royal blue strawberries and cherries appear on a white jumpsuit and dress. Huge flowers, like those found in English meadows, cover long dresses.

The accessories are also eye-catching. Daniel Lee, who created bags that enjoyed great success at Bottega Veneta, where he worked before Burberry, is offering many new models.

He also tries new things with shoes, like chunky heeled moccasins for women and high mules with the brand’s logo on the side, the tall jumper that Daniel Lee has brought back into fashion. For men, moccasins have a square toe.

After the show, guests gathered to celebrate the arrival of Daniel Lee’s first collection – the one presented in February – in store, at the store on New Bond street, which is reopening its doors.

This is an opportunity to see if your creations sell well. Before the summer, the brand’s results were very good: Burberry showed strong growth, with sales soaring in China.

Before Burberry, other designers presented their collections on Monday.

In the morning, British and Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, who benefits from the “NewGen” initiative, in support of young designers, presented a collection strongly influenced by her two identities. The show began with a video of a family ceremony in London after his birth. Then models, women and men, only black, paraded.

For women, she has created a very feminine and elegant collection, with extremely worked cuts, close to the body. Her clothes are creative yet easy to wear. For men, Dr. Martens on their feet, the style is more streetwear.

London Fashion Week ends on Tuesday, with shows by Ukrainian designers hosted in the British capital due to the war in their country. The fashion world will then meet in Milan and finally in Paris.

London, September 18, 2023 (AFP)

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