Haute couture opens up to the man who eschews the black tuxedo and dares more and more embroidery, feathers and sequins for red carpets and other extravagant events.
The masculine look is seen during the autumn-winter 2023-24 haute couture weeks which ends in Paris on July 6: “It is recent and reflects the idea of clothing exploration in the field of men’s wardrobe. The red carpet today is as masculine as it is feminine, an important element”, Analysis of Sciences-PO lecturer Serge Carreira, luxury expert interviewed by AFP. American actor Billy Porter broke the code with his hybrid tuxedo-crinoline dress outfit in Venice last year, just like Timothée Chalamet in a backless jumpsuit.
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“There are more and more men who allow themselves to be fancier and more stylish. It’s a return to 18th century culture, when men, kings and aristocrats weren’t afraid to dress well and be gaudy.”“, GQ France’s editorial director told AFP Pierre-Alexandre M’Pelle.
gender fluidity
American Thom Browne and Frenchman Charles de Vilmorin, newcomers to this haute couture week, mixed styles on the catwalk as naturally as possible. The first with a gray suit, his trademark, for him and for her, as well as a futuristic coat.
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The second with a unisex wardrobe that can be worn by both men and women. “If other people don’t necessarily do it, I have to. In real life, there are a lot of men who wear haute couture”Charles de Vilmorin, 26, told AFP.
Ready-to-wear collections are mostly unisex, but haute couture with evening dresses and high heels has so far been the prerogative of women.
Sequin suit with white train: Indian designer Rahul Mishra didn’t initially plan it to be worn by a man. “The special jackets, the coats weren’t made for this purpose, but when we got here we fitted them on the boys and they looked amazing”he told AFP.
Lebanese Georges Hobeika also introduced some masculine looks such as gray sets, pants, shirts, ties, coats with mini pockets.
Dutchman Ronald van der Kemp has been doing unisex couture since building a house in 2024 because he likes “eccentric people”.
“Gender fluidity has its place in haute couture. The time is now”, says Julian Forney. she has “open up” Scrolling down to Romain Bruh, actor, artist and LGBT person. With a tiara over her long red hair, she wore a huge farthingale, while the women’s appearance was militarized. “men want to wear haute couture clothes”, He assures. “Those with the purchasing power go to London to have tuxedos or special suits made that remain very classic. They want fantasy, embroidery, very elaborate leather pieces”, Next adds the French couturier.
“strong ability”
Is a men’s haute couture week possible? “I will not venture on these paths”Says Serge Carreira for whom these looks are marginal at the moment. “We’re not there yet but why not in a few years”Pierre Alexandre M’Pele believes that this phenomenon “great potential”.
For example, the Italian house Dolce & Gabbana is already making fashion shows. “Alta Moda” And “Alta Sartoria” (tailor stitch) for them “Who wants to show themselves and has the means to do so”, And if you don’t see attractively dressed men on the street, “It is that their life is more luxurious than ours”He concluded.