Musketeers, previously reserved for the military, appeared in women’s wardrobes in the 1960s. This season, the long-uppers are once again triumphant on the runways and on the streets. Zendaya appeared in a velvet variation on them in the newest session for British “Vogue”. Irina Shayk chose the leather version, and Diane Keaton uses a model made of imitation snake scales. We present the history of knee-high shoes, look for inspiration at this year’s shows and present our shopping types for the coming months.
2006, the top floor of a skyscraper at the intersection of 6th Avenue and West 49th Street, editors of the fictional Runway magazine. – Are these shoes Cha … Asks the amazed Emily Charlton (Emily Blunt), until recently favored assistant editor-in-chief Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep). – Yes, it’s Chanel Says her competitor, Andrea Sachs (Anne Hathaway), as she enters the office wearing leather thigh-length thigh-high boots.
15 years after the premiere of the film “The Devil Wears Prada”, the cult transformation scene of the main character is once again circulating on the Internet. Could it be a harbinger of the peak of the popularity of shoes with an extended upper?
The birth of the musketeers
Musketeers, previously reserved for the army, appeared in women’s wardrobes in the 1960s. Mary Quant mini design and women’s suits inspired by men’s wardrobe. A key role here was played by Yves Saint Laurent, who, after parting ways with the Dior fashion house, wanted to make clothes under his own name in spite of the designers working on the post-war “New Look”.
It was 1963. He had outraged Dior’s conservative clientele a moment earlier with a collection that drew on the beatnik style. Moments later, he was to show Le Smoking. For now, Yves Saint Laurent was preparing a street-inspired haute couture show. In collaboration with the shoemaker Roger Vivier, he presented one of the first women’s knee-high boots. To ease the shock, the rebel model was trimmed with expensive alligator leather. The new cut turned out to be a great success. Soon the musketeers began to be reinterpreted by other designers. They were on offer at the ultra-fashionable Biba boutique in London. Pierre Cardin, in line with the Space Age trend, framed them in metallic PVC, making them look like a titanium second skin. There were latex, suede and canvas. Slip on and fastened with a zipper. But the biggest evolutions concerned the height of the upper, which extended with the shortening of the mini.
At the end of the 1960s, Oscar de la Renta in the pages of “Vogue” presented a model fitted to the leg like stockings. He was also treated like this, because he was attached to his underwear belt with buckles to keep him on his thigh. Soon after, the daughter of Californian millionaire Suzane Garfield developed Pan-T-Booty, a hybrid of high heels and tights in a variety of colors.
In the 1970s, the musketeers were annexed by artistic bohemia. Back then, they were worn with pants. In the 1980s and 1990s, Cher, Madonna and Julia Roberts (in the movie “Pretty Woman”) performed successively in latex boots, and Karl Lagerfeld incorporated the satin version into the Chanel haute couture collection.
This season, designers propose musketeers in countless variations. Louis Vuitton offers a classic with a pinch of avant-garde – made of leather and with zippers on the outer sides of the upper. Miu Miu offers knee-high boots made of artificial fur. Acne Studios looks for inspiration in the cockpit and sews them like pilot jackets – made of thick caramel leather and lined with a lambskin. Prada, Schiaparelli and Burberry take us back to the 1960s, creating musketeers that cling to the leg like stockings, and Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander draw on the Space Age trend, painting the upper in silver.
The fall season is just beginning and the stars are already parading in musketeers. Irina Sheik liked the model on a massive platform, Diane Keaton made of fabric imitating snakeskin, and Zendaya made of velor.
Here are our shopping suggestions.
Musketeers Amina Muaddi: From the Wild West
Generation Z musicians have been romancing the country style for several seasons. Wild West was the leitmotif of the debut single “Old Town Road” by rapper Lil Nas X, and the singer Dua Lipa set the video action for the song “Love Again” on a rodeo. Following them, we can choose musketeers designed by Amina Muaddi in a truly cowboy style – made of caramel suede and so high that they resemble chaps (suede overlays for jeans) from Westerns.
Thigh-high Boots Jil Sander: One for all, all for one
Thigh-high boots from the Jil Sander fashion house may resemble knight boots (decorated with a metal shell resembling a fragment of armor) or the shoes of the heroes of Alexandre Dumas’ novels. Both of these associations testify to the immortality of the cut, and the solid leather from which they were made guarantees that they will serve us for years.
Paris Texas Thigh High Boots: 1960s
A slim toe topped with an angular toe, stitching like in Victorian boots and an upper that adjusts to the leg like stockings. The model from the Paris Texas boutique resembles the original thigh-high boots from the 1960s.
Over-Knee Boots Givenchy: Walkin ‘down the street
The most famous musketeers in the history of cinema? Those made of latex, belonging to Vivian Ward, the protagonist of the movie “Pretty Woman” played by Julia Roberts. Similar and in addition on the fashionable platform we can find, among others at Givenchy, Prada and Gianvito Rossi boutiques.