In the world of watchmaking, small watches are often debated, so let’s get it straight: yes, they are perfect for men. In today’s market, anything between 33 and 36 millimeters is considered “small”. And while celebrities like Tyler, the Creator have been wearing small watches for quite a while, now is the time to take this trend on a larger scale. So stop focusing on size, forget about archaic gender boundaries, and embrace these little marvels of the watch industry.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 36
Chopard’s 36mm Alpine Eagle is idolized for its technical prowess, electroplated blue dial, and stainless steel case. “Chopard does an amazing job with watches under 36mm,” notes Jessica Owens, collector and founder of The Daily Grail. “In their current range, there are several sporty models, which is really welcome, because it is not always easy to find small ones.” €11,700 on chopard.com
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TAG Heuer Carrera 36
TAG Heuer reconnects with its past by updating the Carrera, born on the racing circuits in 1963. According to Danar Widanarto, watchmaking expert at Chronondo, this 36 mm version is destined for success. “Watch lovers are tired of long waiting times at Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. They want models that can be obtained more quickly.” Understood ? The era of XXL watches à la 50 Cent, Sylvester Stallone and Flavor Flav is over. 3200€ on tagheuer.com
Cartier Santos de Cartier Galbee
“Cartier has always known how to endow its small watches with a refined and discreet elegance, which makes them emblematic models”, explains Geoff Hess, international specialist in watchmaking at Phillips. “It’s a company that’s always stood out, and it’s had huge success with small, non-round cases like the Tank, Crash and Cloche.” The Santos Galbée de Cartier is a supremely precise quartz movement in a 34.8 mm x 26.2 mm square dial, and an ideal model to convert all men to smaller watches. €8438 on cartier.com
Tissot T-Gold Goldrun Hesalite
Right now, everyone is talking about Tissot, and that’s only fair. When you delve into the brand’s archives, you’ll find superb pre-owned models from bygone eras, which bring the elegance of the past to the present. This is the case of the T-Gold Goldrun Hesalite, with its champagne dial and its slender diameter of 33.5 mm. “The great thing about smaller watches is that they’re more affordable,” says watch expert and YouTuber Nico Leonard. “And to top it all off, they are just as tough, timeless, and have as much character and elegance as the big ones.” 2175€ at watches-of-switzerland
Hublot Classic Fusion Original Titanium
Leonardo da Vinci said that simplicity was the height of sophistication, and Hublot’s 33mm Classic Fusion Original Titanium proves it once again. Refined and elegant, the Classic Fusion caused a sensation in the 1980s with its visionary and discreet side. Hublot has put this model back on the market, with a polished black lacquer dial and a most appreciable lightness. 8600€ on hublot.com
Rado DiaStar 35
“In fashion right now, accessories are very trendy, and watches are coming to be seen as jewelry,” says Maxime Couturier, co-editor-in-chief of Heist Out. “Discretion is in vogue, so watches need to be smaller and fit naturally into everyone’s style.” With this 35 mm model, launched in 1962 with the slogan “the world’s first scratchproof watch”, Rado plays the card of retrofuturism. As small as it is sturdy, this old-school watch feels like Christian Bale in AmericanHustle. 1340€ at watches-of-switzerland
Seiko 5 Sports Champagne Flieger Suit Style
If you do not yet know Champagne Flieger, the time has come to discover it. With its champagne white dial, automatic movement and Arabic numerals, this Seiko 5 Sports Suit Style 36mm combines chic and casualness, and to top it all off, it won’t break the bank. “Appreciating the intricacies of a small watch encourages a focus on craftsmanship,” explains Geoff Hess. “To keep his passion for watchmaking intact for a long time, I see no better way than to take an interest in small models.” 260€ on watches-of-switzerland
Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34mm Leather Strap
You can always count on Timex. Faithful to the post since 1854, the Marlin range (which had its heyday in the 1960s) gives pride of place to small watches with 34 mm cases. Thanks to its affordable price and discreet proportions, the Marlin has now established itself as an icon of modern times. Featuring a mechanical movement and a slender design, this stainless steel reference is ideal for adding a smaller watch to your collection. 199€ on timex.eu
Nomos Club 701
At the forefront of German watchmaking, NOMOS Glashütte seduces novices and experts alike. Its emblematic Club model is distinguished by its minimalism in 36 mm, with an austere typography on a white electroplated silver dial and a stainless steel case. With this all-purpose model, designed for all wrists, Nomos is bold and emphasizes important values such as openness and honesty. €1,300 on nomos-glashuette.com
Oris Divers Sixty-Five
As we saw with this year’s Kermit watch, Oris is where serious meets fun. The Divers Sixty-Five 36mm self-winding is a robust watch, whose shades of blue and black rotating bezel should allow a new audience to discover the joys of small watches. “As a collector, when you are always looking for the largest possible watches to get noticed, you quickly end up getting bored,” explains Geoff Hess. “It is important to vary the pleasures.” 2060€ on oris.ch
Rolex Explorer 5500 ‘Super Precision Underline’
In a market in permanent tension between new and old, individuality manifests itself by drawing on the treasures of the past. The Rolex Explorer 5500 is the ideal model for anyone looking for a small second-hand watch. Extremely rare in 34mm, the 5500 is reminiscent of both the Air-King and the Explorer. “Today, creativity and individuality are much more accepted in men’s clothing,” says JJ Owens. “Tyler, the Creator and Bad Bunny popularized the taste for small watches, and I really hope this trend continues.” €15,700 on fathom-watches.com
Longines Heritage Mens 35
Longines goes back in time with this reinterpretation of the vintage Conquest line, one of the most popular since the 1950s. Featuring a caliber L633 movement and a black leather strap, with gold indexes and a movement with automatic winding, this little 35 mm marvel will convince even the most reluctant to small watches. Geoff Hess agrees: “Lately collectors and watch fans are moving away from the 40-42mm models and going back to more reasonable size things.” 1160€ at watches-of-switzerland
Originally published on British GQ