Covid put barriers in intimacy, the MeToo movement denounced excesses, but with the end of the pandemic, lingerie comes back with force.
Pop star Rihanna anticipated the trend on the Dior runway at the height of winter in Paris, showing off her pregnancy in a sheer camisole and black panties.
Actress Megan Fox scandalized with a micro lingerie on display under a Mugler dress at an MTV awards.
The International Lingerie Show in Paris ended on Monday with shows that not only showed sculptural bodies, but also models with different sizes, as advertising campaigns have done.
– The masks come out, the laces come back –
The lingerie on display is back in full force, after two years of masks, gloves and no contact.
“It’s a trend that is very strong in pop culture. Rihanna, Cardi B, Kim Kardashian took over these codes in a very extroverted way and with a real feminist dimension”, explains to AFP Renaud Cambuzat, creative and image director of the French brand Chantelle .
Instagram is the showcase for this “uncomplicated sexy” movement, which is being embraced “by the younger generations and also among the middle-aged”, Jacqueline Quinn, creator and professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, told AFP.
The well-known Victoria’s Secret brand abandoned its slogan “A perfect body” and now exposes a greater diversity of models, with different ages, sizes and styles, such as the American football player Megan Rapinoe, LGBT symbol.
“Four or five years ago, in the midst of the #MeToo movement, there was a strong desire to do something with greater representation. The #MeToo struggle not only won, but also opened up new perspectives. There are women and brands with legitimacy” to propose a comeback to ultra sexy lingerie, said Renaud Cambuzat.
“We shouldn’t confuse #MeToo with puritanism. A woman can seduce, of her own volition”, tells AFP Samar Vignals, from the Aubade brand.
From its well-known advertisements in black and white, with suggestive pieces and pronounced necklines, Aubade began to show models that look directly at the camera and propose “a frank seduction”.
After the “need for comfort” derived from the pandemic, Aubade’s customers now want “more audacity”, guarantees the stylist.
“The thread panties and the thong are our best sellers”, highlights Samar Vignals.
– Unbridled sexuality, but not so much –
“We see the return of the unbridled sexuality of the 2000s, to codes that refer to the archetype of the object woman but that no longer have the same meaning (…). It is not a demand for seduction, but a reappropriation, in a way feminist, in sexualized attire”, explains Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at the French Institute of Fashion.
It’s about “dedramatizing seduction”, explains Aline Tran, founder of an erotic lingerie store in Paris.
“Now there’s a lot more talk about accepting your body (…) Seduction is a super feminist asset and is part of the tendency to regain control of your body”, she explains.