10 suitcases of vintage clothes, 47 styles, 5,000 petals of flowers on the dress. The two-time Oscar winner talks about working on a film with Emma Stone, which we will see in theaters on May 29.
The Oscar for Mad Max: Fury Road (2015) was received by Jenny Beavan in jeans and a motorcycle jacket decorated with a crystal skull. Earlier, she received a statuette for “A Room with a View” (1985), and was nominated for “The Bostonians” (1984), “Maurycy” (1987), “Return to Howards End” (1992), “Crumbs of the Day” (1993), ” Sense and Romantic ”(1995),“ Anna and the King ”(1999),“ Gosford Park ”(2001) and“ How to Become a King ”(2010). He has a chance for another award for Disney’s “Cruella”, played by Emma Stone. In the 1970s in London, Estella (Stone) attracted the attention of fashion legend Baroness von Hellman (Emma Thompson). Over time, Estella will become a cruel Cruella, swapping her suits for red ball gowns, sequin pants, extravagant coats, and floor-length skirts adorned with hand-sewn flower petals.
What were you inspired by when creating the costumes?
In the 1970s, I lived in London. It is true that I was more interested in theater then in fashion, but I remember what I was wearing. I couldn’t afford Vivienne Westwood or even Biba. There was a lot of inspiration for the film – I watched photos of Westwood, Nina Hagen, the Bodymap and Alexander McQueen collections.
Were you looking for vintage clothes?
Cruella appears in the movie with 47 looks and vintage fashion is part of her story. We looked for outfits in costume rentals that have a lot of ’70s clothes in their collection, but walking around London’s Portobello Road Market was also an interesting experience. The try-ons with Emma Stone took place in Los Angeles. I used to visit the huge antiques market in Los Angeles, A Current Affair, which is now held in Brooklyn, New York. Together with the team, we decided to go there. We also toured a lot of vintage shops in California.
How was it working with Emma Stone?
She was willing to change. The fitting took place in her kitchen and took about six hours. It was then that we laid the foundations for the image of Cruella.
What was the aesthetics of Cruella supposed to be?
The colors for Cruella were very defined from the beginning: black and white dominated with elements of gray and red at key moments. The baroness mainly wears bronze and gold.
How was the Cruella red ball gown made?
It was made from one of the old baroness creations, which is part of the story anyway. Cruella notices her first at one of the vintage stores and then shows off a reworked version of her. The creation was inspired by Charles James “Tree” dress. An absolute genius tailor Ian Wallace decided that remaking the original dress would be the best solution.
Another impressive styling is a pink skirt and an ornate jacket. How was it created?
This jacket is a real work of art. We decided to remake the modest original. The ruffled skirt was supposed to cover the baroness’s car. So it had to be very long and light so that Emma could put it on, and at the same time heavy enough to cover the windows of the vehicle. The skirt was created by the incredibly talented costume designer Kirsten Fletcher, and my students hand-sewn flower petals to it in the studio. Apparently, there are 5060 petals in total.
What were your inspirations when creating the image of the baroness?
The silhouette of Dior. The figure of the baroness is a bit old-fashioned, like from the 1950s. She’s gone for her glory days. I worked with costume designer Jane Law, who has a studio in Worthing on the south coast of England.
Which costume is your favorite?
A rat costume that a chihuahua wears.
1/ 8Check out the glamorous costumes for “Cruella” starring Emma Stone