In the world, we drink more than 2.25 billion coffees a day, but only 10 percent of the coffee cherry (i.e. the fruit of the coffee) is used to make the drink. To remind us he is one of the last brand from skincare arrived on the market, Amarey, founded by those who have had a lot to do with coffee: the three sisters Illy, Andrea Dominique, Jaqueline and Micaela. Born in collaboration with the University of Coffee and Biofarma, Amarey products open the doors to new frontiers of the use of coffee in cosmetics, working on 90% of the coffee fruit usually discarded (the line consists of soothing solid face cleanser, antioxidant face serum, moisturizing face cream and energizing body scrub). A huge and precious part: coffee, in fact, is one of the most antioxidant resources available in nature. And, thanks to these properties, today it is also a candidate to become one of the ingredients of upcycling more interesting than cosmetics.
Upcycling and agribeauty: the new frontiers of green cosmetics
by Claudia Bortolato
Specifically, the coffee plant (Coffea arabica) in cosmetics offers a wide range of benefits: it has antioxidant, thermogenic, anti-inflammatory, repairing, lipolytic and UV rays protection effects. So far one of the most exploited parts has been the caffeine, an adjuvant in lipolysis capable of reducing inflammation and swelling, also significantly reducing dark spots. But caffeine isn’t the only natural component found in coffee. While the coffee powder is one of the recipes skincare popular DIYs – Halle Berry has been repeating for years to use coffee grounds, even mixed with shower gel, to exfoliate the body – new ones are also being discovered parts of the coffee cherry hitherto little exploredstarting from the “peel”, the silverskin (also called “coffee parchment”), that is the silver film that surrounds the bean, usually discarded and disposed of as solid urban waste (Amarey, for example, uses it for packaging).
“I was recently the supervisor of an experimental thesis on the powers of coffee in cosmetics that amazed me: today we have the opportunity to carry out the experiments in a technological and advanced way and the results have been very promising”, says the doctor. Pucci Romano, specialist in dermatology and president of Skineco. The thesis to which the dermatologist refers, written by Annalisa Proia – “Control of oxidative stress induced by UV and analysis of the anti-aging and antioxidant effect of chlorogenic acid on fibroblasts and keratinocytes” – analyzes some polyphenols extracted from the silverskin coffeestarting fromchlorogenic aciddemonstrating with tests and studies its activity on fibroblasts, the “beauty cells” responsible for the appearance of the dermis.
In particular, among the benefits of Silverskin coffee, the first to have been tested with excellent results are those antioxidants and anti-aging. “The higher molecular weight substances present in silverskin coffee extracts could contribute to the inhibitory effect of hyaluronidase (the degradation of hyaluronic acid, ed.), With acid polysaccharides appearing to play an important role”, reads thesis among the final results of the experimentation. Another activity studied was that anti-inflammatory: The results of the studies also show that chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid inhibit the production of several factors involved in infections, suggesting an important anti-inflammatory effect. Finally, significant experiments and studies have arrived regarding the activity of protection against UV damage of chlorogenic acid, which we remember to be present not only in coffee beans, but also in silverskin coffee. “Until now we knew the antioxidant powers of coffee at an empirical level – comments the dermatologist Pucci Romano – today we have more sophisticated and increasingly interesting data that open up new scenarios on the topical use of coffee”.