Grossman, Gibert, Flohé and McArthur the first after Qualifying

Boulder World Cup Bressanone: the first after Qualifying are Natalia Grossman, Fanny Gibert, Yannick Flohé and Hamish McArthur. Tomorrow the women’s semifinal at 11, the women’s final at 20.

The script, at least in part, was already written. Today, under the direction of AVS and FASI, the first day on the wall at the Vertikale Climbing Stadium in Bressanone for the Bouldering World Cup, with the female qualification deciding the best 20 of the lot that will have access to the semifinal tomorrow.

Natalia Grossman (USA) was the first to enter the scene (Group A) and left immediately. She hit the top on the first attempt with a disarming simplicity, giving a smile to the many applause of the audience, including the children of the Brissinese schools who flocked to it. She top 5 on the first try, and she was the only one. She evidently satisfied Grossman: “Today I had a lot of fun, the boulders were really well done. It is my first time here in Bressanone, in Italy I have only been to Arco. The boulders were special but beautiful, I entered convinced of myself and strong in my form. We’ll see how it goes tomorrow, maybe the fourth consecutive victory will come, let’s hope! ” At the last minute, compatriot Brooke Raboutou, second in the Cup standings, and Frenchwoman (father from Turin) Oriane Bertone, third, were absent.

Then the scene was taken by another Frenchwoman, Fanny Gibert, top 5 also for her but with one more attempt than the American, however very determined and performing, the best of Group B. Surprise, even if partial, for the German Hannah Meul and the Chinese Zhilu Luo, second in their respective groups and good at getting behind the Korean Chaehyun Seo and the Japanese Serika Okawachi.

For the blue, the qualification confirmed the good state of form of the Ligurian Camilla Moroni, author of 4 tops and finished 15th, and therefore tomorrow we will see her at the start of the semifinal. “Maybe I could have done better – said Moroni – especially in block 3 where I was unable to climb, the best approach seemed to be the one I tried at the last one, it was a bit to understand and the most congenial method for me was I only found it at the last attempt, but it was too late. Overall I think it went quite well. I still feel good, a little nervous this morning, I knew it was a difficult shift because I saw the members. The gym is very nice, the walls have nice inclinations; the warm-up zone is also great for athletes. And then we are at home, and in 2019 I managed to finish second in the European Youth Championship here ”.

Up to half of qualifying the Cuneo-based Giorgia Tesio (21.a) was also in the 20s, the other blue also out of the semifinal, as was predictable given the high level of the athletes in the race: Laura Rogora (25.a), Federica Papetti ( 41.a), Irina Daziano (45.a), Giulia Medici (49.a), Francesca Matuella (61.a), Miriam Fogu (61.a) and Beatrice Colli (65.a).

MALE
The charge of 101 and the Flohé and McArthur that you do not expect! The German Yannick Flohé, in the qualification with 101 athletes from 34 nations, “bent” the second of the Bouldering World Cup Kokoro Fujii. But also Hamish McArthur at the top, able to get behind the other Japanese and leader of the Ogata Cup. It happened this afternoon at the Vertikale Climbing Stadium in Bressanone. In the afternoon, the grandstand was packed with great cheering. The South Tyrolean of the FFOO Michael Piccolruaz was highly anticipated, but not everything went as the fans expected.

Two qualifying groups, with all the best attacking the boulders first. Unleashed Japanese ready to reaffirm their superiority in CdM; Fujii was already ready to celebrate the success together with compatriot Yoshiyuki Ogata, leader of the Cup, until Flohé closed his five problems with 5 tops in succession, but above all on the first “problem” he closed the game with a single attempt. The Japanese, on the other hand, took 8 attempts before making the top. Then a reversal of the ranking reviewed by the judges, with the British McArthur leaping to the top of his group. So qualifying dominated by Flohé and McArthur, with the Japanese second.

“It was a very tough competition – Flohé said at the end of the race – every problem had its own difficulty, I managed to reach all the tops, even quickly, so I’m satisfied. There was a big difference today: we usually start with a very technical first boulder problem, of the “slab” type, this time no, it was a “steep” boulder problem. I was able to “flash” it and it is important to start well with the first problem, after which you just have to keep that flow. In the semifinals everything will have to be redone, we hope to continue like this and to be able to get into the final, I would be very pleased ”.

Even the Austrian Jakob Schubert risked compromising the day with a difficult, for him, fifth problem after four tops strung with confidence. At the Vertikale Climbing Stadium he finished third in his group, putting the qualification in his pocket. Third also the Korean Dohyun Lee, who started 11th.

Loudly supported Michael Piccolruaz. He got off to a flying start, hitting the top on the first attempt, a difficult and difficult problem for many. Then he made a mistake in approaching the second, he went back to the third with another top, after which many attempts and only “zones” without a top. So the Val Gardena slipped over the limit of the top twenty (38th) and we will not see him in the semifinal on Sunday: “Unfortunately it didn’t go as I wanted, I started very well on the first block. At the second I suffered the movement, it was an easy block and I had to do it. The race probably changed from there. The third was very easy, the fourth was very physical and it’s not my style. And I should have done the fifth plate too. It’s a shame, I wanted to climb in front of the home crowd even in the semifinals. ” The other Italians fought like lions, but the competition was enormous. Michele Bono finished in 47th place, Marcello Bombardi in 51st and Pietro Vidi in 65th.

Tomorrow morning the show resumes with the women’s competitions, Sunday with the men’s ones, again orchestrated by AVS under the aegis of FASI.

Women’s qualifications
1 Grossman Natalia Usa; 1 Gibert Fanny Fra; 3 Meul Hannah Ger; 3 Luo Zhilu Chn; 5 Seo Chaehyun Kor; 5 Okawachi Serika Jpn; 7 Gejo Stasa Srb; 7 Sterrer Franziska Aut; 7 Pilz Jessica Aut; 10 Ito Futaba Jpn

Men’s qualifications
1 Yannick Flohé GER; 1 Hamish McArthur GBR; 3 Kokoro Fujii JPN; 3 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN; 5 Jakob Schubert AUT; 5 Dohyun Lee KOR; 7 Mathieu Ternant FRA; 7 Maximillian Milne GBR; 9 Tomoa Narasaki JPN; 9 Rei Kawamata JPN

Info: www.suedtirol-climbing.it.

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About David Martin

David Martin is the lead editor for Spark Chronicles. David has been working as a freelance journalist.

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