The best of Pitti Uomo 102

Abandoned the low profile (mandatory, in truth, for reasons that it is now superfluous to specify) of the last two years, Pitti Uomo returns to the usual pre-pandemic format, with a whirlwind of presentations, special projects and collateral events, spread over four days, from 14 to 17 June. Once the mass of stylistic inputs concentrated in the pavilions of the Fortezza da Basso has been metabolized, we have decided to summarize some innovations spring / summer 2023 seen during the review.
To follow, the best of Manintown of the 102nd edition of the show, category by category.

Outerwear

The Waterproof S / S 2023 (ph. Courtesy The Waterproof)

With the beautiful seasons which, alas, will be increasingly characterized by canicular climate, humidity, perhaps sporadic but violent showers (marrying sustainability, on the other hand, is urgent precisely to mitigate the consequences of climate change), outerwear producers do not they spare their efforts to adapt to the – changed – needs and preferences of customers.

A specialist in the category like The Raincoat, from this point of view, it has an advantage. For the S / S 2023 the (renewed) collaboration with the designer Romano Ridolfi, who signs the garments of the blue label, draws on the relaxed volumes and practicality of ’60s sportswear, hybridizing formal and informal in a series of musts that do not they should never be missing in the men’s wardrobe; emphasis is placed on the 2.0 version of the paramatta, an Australian waterproofed fabric suitably lightened, made more compact and versatile; in the line marked by the gray label, on the other hand, the use of waxed cotton prevails and the classics of the brand (dusters, field jackets and overcoats) are enriched with Prince of Wales or tartan motifs.

Latorre tailoring brings the capsule collection to the central pavilion Vent De Sirocco, a reinterpretation of the colonial style through the artisan savoir-faire and the obsession with quality that animate the brand; therefore, chalk-colored Saharanians are inevitable taupedouble-breasted trench coat and parka, evocative of elegance souple of other times.

Nautical clothing does not cease to exert its charm (see interest in the America’s Cup, in 2021): Murphy & Nye And North Sails rightly enhance a heritage defined by regattas, yachts and maritime landscapes, the first by re-editing the pieces that, at the beginning of the millennium, decreed its success – from the zip-up blouson to the sleeveless performing fabrics), the second by associating with Maserati in a collab where the American company’s lifestyle (centered on the ocean, its true aesthetic propeller) meets the tech avant-garde of the Trident house in padded jackets, vests, jackets in two lengths ideal for traveling, developed favoring eco, organic yarns or recycled.

Jeans

The warm months require weights of a certain type and shades that match the seasonal palette, allowing ourselves – why not? – bright colors and imaginative washes, to give an extra touch of liveliness to the outfit. They know it well from Cycle (a guarantee in terms of luxury denim): the S / S 2023 collection is the perfect synthesis of the inexhaustible creativity with which the brand manipulates the blue canvas, which depending on the case is torn, discolored (the tie-dye or bleached are wasted), mended, mixed with lyocell and modal to accentuate its softness, with the modeling made now adherent (in the five skinny pockets), now comfy.

Sticking to the philosophy that every garment should be “rich in stories, unique and precious”, too Reign considerably diversifies the options to choose from, passing from flayed pants to those mottled with paint, from washed out to red, orange and dark green gradients, alternative colorful to the eternal blue jeans.
From HandPicked the salpe become the litmus test to orient yourself in the six moods of the season, ranging from Pop (identified by an eco-leather label, inspired by Julian Schnabel’s neo-expressionist paintings) atHandmade; in the latter the creative and manufacturing virtuosity of the label is concentrated, amidst preciousness, pleats and constructions that one would expect to find in an atelier.

Trousers

There are two top-rated models Berwich for the next year: Negroni Luxchino by tones sablé in hemp (green fiber that gives the garment a lived, authentic patina), e 2Poversize bermuda with double pleat in spotted print.

Eye (synonymous with state-of-the-art trousers since the birth of the brand, in 2013), for its part, triples the offer, divided into Main, Natural Wonders And Activebut the goal is the same, that is, to raise the notion of casual, to make it a transversal genre by enhancing both the materials (linen, cotton, gabardine, wool and silk blend …), and the wearability, which aspire to perfection, whether of the carrot cut of the best-seller Mitteof the dried lines of the Brera or of smooth fit (as it is defined) of the Burano.

Sweaters and shirts

Despite the scorching temperatures already from the first hints of summer, knitwear and shirts continue to be the masters in the wardrobes of Pitti exhibitors. In the “sitting room” KNTfor example, the mini-collection steals the eye Pandaimprinted with the favorite animal of Mariano De Matteis (designer of the line, together with his twin Walter), alternately angular (because it is made up of geometric panels), stylized manga-like or reduced to a hypnotic pattern that takes possession of overshirts and shorts; behind the apparent ease of t-shirts, sweatshirts and the like lies the sartorial mastery of the family business, Kitonbecause «simplicity is the supreme sophistication», to put it in the words of Leonardo da Vinci.

From the Genoese knitwear factory Avant Toiinstead, green light for the reinterpretation of the Seventies style to the sound of ethno-chic motifs, optical designs, shades of color that transfer the shades of sunset to linen, silk, cashmere and other noble yarns. 70s style elements on the shields also in the space of Roberto Collinawhere you get lost among floral jacquard inlays, acid-etched colors, multicolor petals to illuminate the textures of shawl cardigans, pullovers and t-shirts.

For those who never give up the shirt, winter or summer it doesn’t matter, here are the many innovations unveiled by specialized brands, from the elegance of linen – used in all sauces, in solid colors, madras, seersucker, sorbet color … – of Alessandro Gherardi to the institutionality of shirtmakers Borriello Naples; from the translation of musical genres – funky, soul, indie – into shirts of various shapes operated by Brancaccio to the colorful patchwork of Poggianti 1958.

Footwear and accessories

2Star S / S 2023 (ph. Courtesy 2Star)

As far as shoes and accessories are concerned, there is something for everyone in the stands of the fair. 2Starfor example, he selects essential canvases for menswear – denim, 100% organic canvas, sweatshirt – and transfers them to the uppers of the new S / S sneakers, “soiled” just enough to accentuate their metropolitan allure. Vintage effect also from Monowaymade explicit in this case by small cracks and shading on white gymnastics with a ’80s character.

Monoway S / S 2023 (ph. Courtesy Monoway)

Lightness, a desire to escape, a return to life en plein air. The watchwords of the beautiful season of Barrett are reflected in the technical solutions (deconstructed shapes, ultra-soft rubber soles, woven or unlined leathers) and chromatic solutions (a scale of light shades, light blue, beige, mellow blue, caramel brown) adopted by monk straps, lace-ups, moccasins and briefs- on.

Among the accessories, at least the glasses should be mentioned Jacques Marie Mage (adored by the Californian jet set, read – among others – Jude Law, Samuel L. Jackson, Kristen Stewart, LeBron James); the hats handcrafted Superduper; the bracelets edgy from Topologies (incorporating hooks and closures of climbing ropes); at the green level, finally, the stock exchanges Regenesisobtained from regenerated materials and textile waste.

In the opening image, a shot of the official campaign of the 102nd edition of the fair, ‘Pitti Island’ (ph. Courtesy of Pitti Immagine)

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About David Martin

David Martin is the lead editor for Spark Chronicles. David has been working as a freelance journalist.

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